Reviewed
by Sara Matthis
Special Sections Editor
A Fish Sandwich Primer
For some people, visiting the Keys isn’t about
taking a simple vacation. It's a quest
to find the perfect fish sandwich served in an authentic
Keys restaurant on the waterfront.
The sandwich I’m
talking can be blackened or grilled, but is usually
best appreciated when it’s fried
golden brown with just the right amount of breading
and breaks open with only the smallest pressure to
reveal moist and fresh grouper or dolphin.
There are
many, many wonderful restaurants in the Keys. Some
are fancy and some are landlocked. In the quest for
the perfect fish sandwich, I’ve narrowed the
field by imposing some parameters — otherwise
we'd
be here all day.
- The sandwich must cost around $7.
- The sandwich must be served to diners sitting at
a wooden picnic table.
- The sandwich must be eaten in full view of the
open water.
• Hogfish Bar and Grill, 293- 4041, downtown
Stock lsland.
Owned and operated by the same folks that bring us
Geiger Key, Hogfish Bar and Grill is known for its
hogfish sandwich — foodies say it has a lighter
and brighter taste than grouper or dolphin. This place
has plenty of local ambiance and live entertainment
in a not-easy-to-be-found locale. Take MacDonald Avenue
to 4th Avenue and make a right. Make a left on Front
Street and drive almost to the end. Although this is
the only restaurant on the list that doesn't have an
open ocean view, its other qualities — good food,
funny characters and working-class dockside vessels — more
than make up for it.
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